Replacing your Manual Windlass with an Electric one
One of the problems with many older manual windlasses is that they were made with alloy cases and stainless steel fastenings, which generally corrode to such an extent that it is nearly impossible to get them apart to service or repair. If this is the case or you are looking to replace a manual windlass with an electrical one anyway, the difference in price between a manual and electric one is very little.
The main considerations to be made if fitting a new electric windlass are as follows:
1. The mounting position.
2. Power source.
3. The size and type of Windlass required for the boat.
4. The anchor chain.
Taking these considerations in turn:
1. If you are replacing an old manual windlass, the mounting position will probably the same as that which you are replacing, you may have to make good any redundant fixing holes. and you will need to allow room for the power/switching cables, more of this later. The fitting of a windlass where there has not been one, means that you will have to ensure that the area is well reinforced and will be in alignment and the correct distance from your bow roller or hawse pipe to accommodate the anchor shank and chain connection to it. That there is proper stowage and a good fall for the chain as it comes off the back of or round the gypsy.
2. The power source can be from your existing battery bank. This will entail running large diameter cables (similar in size to those connected to the starter motor) from the batteries to the close vicinity of the windlass, to a control box or circuit breaker to which you will connect the pre-fitted power cables from the windlass. A circuit breaker for the windlass is a necessity as the power drawn is considerable, and if overloaded, it will trip. This is a better solution than fuses, that may well need replacing fairly frequently. The breaker can be near the windlass or at the other end of the circuit near the battteries.
To avoid having the expense and the trouble of fitting the very large power cables, it can be easier to fit a battery near the windlass thus shortening the heavy wiring circuit. The charging circuit cables to the battery can be considerably reduced in size, making them easier to install.
Windlasses are controlled by either one or some of the following, foot switches, panel mounted toggle switch or wired hand held control. Whichever of these you decide to use, remember, you really want to be able to see the anchor and chain entering/leaving the water from your controlling position.
3. The size of the windlass required is determined by the size of your boat, the anchor and chain size you have or you are going to fit. The windlass must be of sufficient power to cope with all these loadings. Also you will need to decide the type of windlass you want, a horizontal one, motor contained in the unit and chain passing over the top of the gypsy, OR a vertical windlass with the motor below the windlass and the chain passing around the gypsy.
Another consideration is whether you need a drum on the windlass, these are very usefull for warping the boat alongside in adverse conditions, hauling someone up the mast, etc.
4. The size of anchor chain you either already have or intending to fit, determines the size of the gypsy required on the windlass. the general sizes available are, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm & 12mm. These chains will need to be calibrated to the same DIN measurement as the gypsy. This measurement is usually stamped on the gypsy. Except for the very small windlasses there is usually a choice of gypsy sizes within the load capacity of a particular windlass.
As you can see fitting a new windlass is not too difficult as long as you plan the installation, and get the correct specifications for your boat and any existing equipment you want to use.
If you need any help or advice on any of the above, please ring us at Piplers of Poole, we will be glad to help.
Copyright - John Gardner 2010